How I Started Surfing

For those seeking an amazing surf blog, filled with high quality shots of people ripping and getting barrelled at Pipe and Teahupo’o can I just urge you to lower your expectations now.  Emily doesn’t surf (not a great start) and I am a beginner. But that’s why I wanted to include this part of our blog, to give an insite into what it is like for a beginner in the UK. Surfing is not like football or ice skating or cooking for that matter. You can’t just give it a go and be OK from the off.  You will suck to begin with. If you are thinking of learning to surf, I will tell you this now,  you won’t do much standing on waves for most of the first few sessions.  You will do a lot of paddling (so much paddling…) a lot of spluttering cold, sea water and a lot of splashing the water in frustration.  Now, before a whole generation gets completely put off surfing (that’s my delusions of grandeur coming out),  it all becomes worth it, for those few seconds that you are stood up and the wave takes you.

I first surfed around 10 years ago, having a lesson with a surf school and from that I was hooked.  Hooked but not committed.  I dreamed of surfing, but didn’t put the effort in to making it happen.  5 years later, me and Emily both had a surf lesson as part of our first holiday together, down in Devon.  Again,  I loved every second of it, but finding time to commit to surfing was hard and it just never happened.

Now in the summer of 2015, on a family trip to Padstow, I committed myself to going surfing.  On the last day of the holiday,  I had put it off long enough,  I drove down to Harlyn Bay, rented a foamie and headed out on my own.  OK, so their was a surf school lesson going on about 10m down the beach, but I felt for the first time that I was out surfing by myself.  I attracted quite a crowd (family members) and could hear their gasps and groans as I repeatedly, almost, got to my feet.  The family must have been watching me for about 45 minutes when finally,  I did it.  I stood up, and the wave caught me and carried me all the way to the beach.  I have a picture of that moment on a mug.

Last year was my first year of trying to regularly go surfing and being based in East Anglia in the UK, doesn’t allow easy access to reliable surf. We will be putting up another blog post soon about our surf trips from 2016.

 

Any tips you might have or good surf spots to check out let us know by email or on Twitter.

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